Ireland and New York: identifying a ‘fashion place’

Figure 1. Hand painted lithography made in New York, entitled Chronological tree of Irish history (1876). The branches are inscribed with significant dates and events in Irish history from the first English invasion to 1876. On the left is Erin, the personification of Ireland, with harp and hound. A man, thought to be Daniel O’Connell,Continue reading “Ireland and New York: identifying a ‘fashion place’”

The End of an Aura?

Walter Benjamin’s The Work of Art in the Age of Mechanical Reproduction and Archival Materiality. A presentation for The New School Parsons, Paris Fashion Heritage and Media research symposium held on 29th April 2022. Keywords: aura, archive, materiality, fashion, communication, social media, photography Abstract A 15-minute talk exploring the notion of the aura, as definedContinue reading “The End of an Aura?”

What is slow fashion, really?

Research project into the accessibility of slow fashion brands. We originally hypothesised that slow fashion brands price out those on lower incomes, which causes a higher consumption of fast fashion. Our investigation into this involved initial interviews that informed the construction of a survey, to which 60 people responded. Following these we conducted more detailedContinue reading “What is slow fashion, really?”

Royal Style in the Making: Exhibiton Review

Figure 1: Diana’s wedding gown. Entranced by elegance and stunned by beauty that I had not expected, I stood in front of Lady Diana’s 1981 wedding dress (fig.1) in complete awe. A design that has never appealed to me when viewing contemporary journalistic photography of Prince Charles and Diana’s wedding; this exhibition reframed the dressContinue reading “Royal Style in the Making: Exhibiton Review”

Irish Youth Culture and Subculture in Fashion

‘Theorists provide invaluable tools to “think through fashion” [and …] engaging with theory is essential in order to understand and analyse fashion’ (Rocamora and Smelik 2016). Despite the emphasis of Anglicised narratives, there have been youth culture and subcultural movements in Ireland which heavily concerned fashion. This essay will form a case study around photographsContinue reading “Irish Youth Culture and Subculture in Fashion”

Slut-Shaming and the Miniskirt

Summary An exploration of the discourse surrounding women’s bodily autonomy and choice of dress in relation to the miniskirt and its invention in the 1960s. The essay includes background on the historical context of the original design, as well as a critical discussion on society’s perception of women who choose to wear miniskirts. The implicationsContinue reading “Slut-Shaming and the Miniskirt”

Dress and the feminine-grotesque

A discussion of taste and shame in fashion in relation to the perception of the feminine-grotesque in Richard Billingham’s work. In Ray’s a Laugh, Billingham’s mother, Liz, serves as a visual representation of many white working-class women. The working class materialised as a social label through middle-class interpretations, conceived by their desire to maintain socialContinue reading “Dress and the feminine-grotesque”

in the groove

History and Culture of Fashion Blog My long-standing interest in the theory of fashion is centred around studies of bodily practice and feminism, and how these correlate with the histories and cultures of fashion, including the dynamic social implications they pose. Maurice Merleau-Ponty’s (cited in Negrin, 2016) writing defines the undeniable links between fashion andContinue reading “in the groove”